Sri Lanka blog entry # 6 (Park Street Jam…)

Every trip I take is usually accompanied by an accidental soundtrack.  When I went to Denmark In May 2011, somehow old school WuTang jams ended up on my iphone.  Methodman recited verses as I walked through art museums, and all Wu anthems had a calming affect occupying the anxious part of the brain.  The sound track to the whole Sri Lankan experience was the constant drumming where ever I went.  At my recent performance at the Lankadara girl orphanage I passed a drum around, and to no surprise it ended up in competent hands.  Tradition flourishes here, and I came across two distinct forms of musical folklore, one being Sinhalese and oriental sounding with compound rhythms and a variety of different drums and flutes; the other is tamil which is a bit more upbeat and mostly 6/8.  The popular form of music here is called Baila and is so much fun to play around with; expect me lifting some rhythms for the next album.
Upon arrival from the Galle Lit fest I hooked up with Sachinta and his Beatdrummers(http://www.beatdrummers.com) crew, and we performed all over Colombo doing a  pseudo Celtic/Boney M medley.  Sachinta who I believe is 24 years old, a powerful kid built within a small frame.  His fingers are hard like stone and slightly deformed from ceaseless practice and performing.  The only drummer amidst a family of dancers, he is already a master, even though too modest to admit it himself.  He assumed responsibility for his household upon his father’s sudden death a year ago.  His dad was an acclaimed master of traditional dance whose proud metallic bust stands at the entrance of the house which also services as repetition hall.  Sachinta’s brother is also an acclaimed dancer who I could tell is still coping hard with the loss of their father.
When first I came to his house I realized this is not just a simple dwelling but an artistic compound, where Sachinta calls the shots, whipping his obedient students into drumming machines.  They were practicing a number they call ‘Bucket Bucket;’ it’s basically an adaptation of american street bucket drumming with a dynamic range of patterns.  His loyal servant was knocking fruit off a tree while standing on a cement fence.  Sachinta was speaking  drum to his compandres ‘prum, taka taka taka tum, taka tum, taka tum.’  After a little jam we set upon creating a show.  I was asked of what popular melodies I know, and I said I would rather do originals, so we did both.  The rehearsal ran for at least 4 hours during which I sweated through a shirt, and was ready to boogie down home to catch dinner.  This was my second week here, and already bookings were coming in like crazy.  I met the organizer for the Colombo International Music festival, so that is in the cards for late august.
The big gig that was booked in advance and was called Park Street Jam; and it took place on a Sunday the 29th of January at a gentrified warehouse district.  I was to perform solo, and then with the beat drummers; as well there was Ken Stringfellow(www.kenstringfellow.com/) of the REM and the Posies fame.  The flow of the night was a constant assent in intensity, and Ken started it off  by reducing the gap between the performer and the audience. He stepped forward off the stage and came face to face with the people leaving the mic behind and going completely acoustic.  This moistened the whole vive, and the flow was on the right track. Sometimes his voice followed note per note a melody which would lightly pop out of dense chord harmony; scarcely used, this effect felt so pleasant each time.  He appeared to me as Arlecchino, that innocently mischievous archetype that humbled audiences for many centuries.  After Ken, came my turn, I walked on stage with no band, or backing tracks.  Picked my violin and shut off as much untimely thoughts as I could, to go straight into focus.   I began to play like I was trying to impress my self, and it was working.  The eyes were collecting, and I saw my friend Jiles crawling on some piece of furniture to see what was going from behind the audience.  This was a moment that drained all the dopamine my brain produces for a week, the absolute moment of rare bliss.  I wanted to have a backing track start right after the improv, but when the track came in sounding stripped through my monitor wedges, I decided to scrap that idea and said that I will have real drummers coming in a bit.  Sachinta and his crew were waiting stage right to commence upon signal, and after stepping back into the zone for a bit more improv, I gave them the signal to take the stage.  This is when the whole place went bananas.  The way our minds linked together only occurred once again later in the trip, but my precise dancing at the same time as I was playing took me back to the busking days.  My legs were doing stuff I can’t do on my own, and I’m so glad one of Sachinta’s friend’s got it all on tape(the videos are in the next Blog entry).
After the show I knew that what we did was unusual, and not only it transformed the audience, but also transported them to some magical place.
For the next two days after the show my mood dropped heavily, this is what usually happens after such experience.  Even for a moment of happiness you need to pay a certain price, but with my friend Viren telling me not to get all double negative with feeling bad about being down; I bounced back quickly, and waited for the next adventure.
I wrote briefly in a previous entry about Kichaa and the Galle face Hotel, he is the one responsible for introducing me to this wonderful complex.  The day after the big show I get a call from someone who I cannot recall.  Its a late morning call, and the person wants to meet asap outside the Galle Face Hotel.  I go through the rolodex in my mind, and think of who I could have possibly met yesterday, but was too lucid to remember.
After breakfast and a bit of dezombifying I was on my way across the street to meet this mystery person.  Right behind a row of three wheelers, and close to the water this dude stood up and waved, and I realized that it is was a DJ from Nepal that I met last night who is supposed to play with me at Art Biennale in two weeks time. After trying to figure out what would be open right now, he said that Galle Face Hotel is best place for the view and cheap beer.  At this point I abandoned my original plan of  trimming the slight beer gut that a accumulated the year before.  I didn’t know at the time that this special place will become my resort during this anti Vacation.  I went there the previous Friday for quick beer and thought that it might be a bit too posh to kick back, but it came out to be the complete opposite.  Here no one would bother if you decided to take off your shirt, catch some sun when you sit down, and order a tall bottle of Lion beer.  I didn’t mind the unresponsive waiters and the occasional seagull yanking a chicken bones off my plate, as long as I got the best seat with an umbrella.  Most of the people that I had to meet would be directed here with a text message instructing them to come to the pool bar and look for me right in front facing the ocean, the perfect office.
In the following week there were two Television appearance both with Sachinta and the Beatdrummers, the first was MTV and the following was The Sri Lanka People awards.   Having experienced a few events already I picked up on some local customs, like having the Guests of Honour(ministers and such) light candles that float in a massive dish with certain flowers; but at the awards ceremony I saw the first example of Sri Lankan classical dance.  The term classical isn’t just attached to Ballet here, but mostly to a tradition of dance that goes back thousands of years.  There was a slight mix up in the program, and I was told to stay longer which put me in an uneasy situation as I had to bounce early to make another scheduled gig at the Canadian club.   This was a monthly party organized by Pierre and his wife who came here to work for the Canadian Commission from Gatineau, and it had to end by 10.  Everything worked it self out as speeches were cut short, and the performance being bumped up to the first act.  Sweaty, and rushing past smocking presenter girls back stage I had 20 minutes to make it to the next destination.  The massive van cab that usually transports Beatdrummer’s drums plus the band was waiting at the entrance.  With two other band member to direct the way we made it right on time, even though we did get lost along the way.  Pierre greeted me with a beer i hand and thanked the boys for getting me there alive; he then walked me into a packed bar hall with a swimming pool seen through the glass doors.  The Sound system was already set up by a kid with cool tattoos, and took me about 10 minutes to get ready and polish off the beer.  After the performance and sweating through another shirt it was nice to unwind and talk global politics as next morning I had to be up early to head down to Bar Reef and Ulpotha(next blog entry!).

Sri Lanka Entry 4: GALLE LIT FEST 2

As always I’m delayed in blogging, but never the less I do promise you a compelling read. The previous blog covered the start of the whole adventure, but the rest of the Galle lit fest was so intense that writing about is like stringing a blur.
I just found out that the Galle Fort it self is an actual functioning fort even though it was built ages ago, and it’s walls withstood the last tsunami. There is almost no two identical buildings here, and what would seem like a not noteworthy narrow house would open up to a lavish stretched out living area, and a small manicured garden in the back.

The first walk through the fort revealed a world full of colleges, muslim cafes with delicious Rotis, and plenty of stray dogs and cats. The dogs here seem very disheartened with the human surrounding, as if its our world that they are cursed with dealing with; they go about their daily business with sad eyes, and some love any attention you give them. They effortlessly cross the road amidst traffic, and almost everywhere where you find shade you will see a Sri Lankan short haired dog taking a nap. The advice I was given is never to pat a dog when its sleeping, but I did see somebody have a successful drunken patting session with a three legged stray just the other night.  I’m not sure I mentioned this in my previous blog, but I had a great time playing with street puppies within the fort.  Their mom looked kinda relieved that someone else took on the responsibility of entertaining them for a bit.  A car was driving by and had to stop for a moment trying to get all the puppies organized, and out of the way before it could pass.  One kid signaled me and asked me if I wanted to pay 450 Sri Lankan Rupees to see him jump head first off the wall into the water, and apparently a decade before this was just a hobby the local kids came up with, which eventually morphed into a tourist attraction.

Richard Dwakings headlined the day after Tom Stoppard, and to be honest I was expecting a bit more originality. I guess what is common sense to some still feels like something a bit tough to swallow to others; and with that in mind he had to release a book for children focusing on debunking popular modern myths(go and purchase ‘Magic of Reality’). He read out of his new boo, and then took a few questions. This didn’t feel like literature to me at all, but more like a light hearted essay that was meant for an adult reader to chuckle along to. He was definitely there to piss some people off, but to my surprise the audience was more harmonious to his statements than to Sir Stoppard the day before. What was missing for me is imagination, and even though he was saying that imagination is key to science; he felt so dated. Personally I believe that Atheism should’t be an ism at all, and it shouldn’t be a science; it is a lack of a filter that otherwise clouds our judgment, but human beings are so complicated that often in the absence of faith you will see something else congruent to religion fill the void. Literary masters like Stoppard see the world in a non idealistic view, and as long as you are free to decide for your self what you believe in and not brandish your belief around like a gun in the hands of an insecure thug; then all is gravy. The issue that both of them kind of touched on is that the ideals and morals that are archaic are being pushed onto children by their parents, and that is very dangerous. We just saw that happen in Canada when a man murdered his teenage daughters and han ex-wife with the help of his son and the current spouse. In his mind the girls were too sexually liberal and brought shame upon his family, and these are those archaic moral ideals I’m talking about. Most people were appalled by his actions, but I’m sure there is quite a number worldwide of clouded minds that would not only support what he did, but would do exactly the same thing; and not all of them are devout or religious at all.

That week as well I met a local fire fighter that told me about his brother that also played the violin, and in his words had a bigger violin hickey than me; so out of curiosity I asked him to bring him over the next day around 11. By Sri Lankan standards he showed up with his brother the next day at 12:30. This extremely shy kid took a bit of convincing to play a few traditional tunes, and then he took my fiddle and closed his eyes diving into some traditional stuff. The technique was not different, but the phrasing felt very refreshing. He then played on his own violin breaking an E string, so I passed him one of my spares. The next day I was supposed to come over to his placeto jam, but decided to immerse my last day in taking a final walk throughout the

Fort accompanied by Anoushka(the founder of www.colomboartbeinnale.com), who lived there for many years, and raised her sons within these walls. She brought me to a local artist that paints on wood(look up Sithuvili on facebook), and once again I was in a presence of a shy artist. It’s very refreshing to meet so many creative individuals who are not boisterous, and do not live the typical North American standard of being the over confident alpha figures; but rather modest, and purely composed.

That night I performed the Festival’s closing party at Aqua (http://cantaloupevillas.com/), and as usual went completely bonkers. The energy was so fresh, as most of the people didn’t see this side of me yet, but still enjoyed the earlier improv sets at the cafe. I met a young couple from Hong Kong that were just so energized by the performance that they were recharging me in return. It was their first time here, and the whole vacation was a surprise gift from the girlfriend to her boyfriend. Then there was this awesome couple from Riga who with their warmth kept the vodka coming till closing time; and ofcourse the trip wouldn’t be complete without meeting a crew from closer to home, so out of nowhere I get introduced to a party family from Quebec that were good friends with the young owners of the club/villaresort….Phew…That was an amazing night, and I passed out on the way back to Colombo in the passenger seat of Viren’s car arriving back in the City at about 7 in the morning.  People are still talking about that night, and I’m trying to see if I can make it back south to Galle before I go back home.
I will leave you at this moment, but will continue as soon as I get a piece of mind.

Sri Lanka Blog entry 3: GALLE LIT FEST PART I

I got Settled at the festival performing on and off in between 12 and 2 at the Lit Cafe for the duration of the festival. It’s a charming open space incased in the exterior of the original fort wall from the sixteen hundreds. The aire here is laid back, and today (Friday the 20th) a girl came up to me and asked me about when am I performing next, when I asked for her name she said Swastika; thank goodness I kept a straight face, but the girl gave off a chuckle as if she knew exactly what I was thinking.
Beside me is the kiosk for Sri Lankan Air which I watched being set up by Sri Lankan Rastas, and for the first time time ever I hear people actually complaining about how cheap the flights are. This dude is actually saying that he would pay more for a flight.
This part of the fest is taken being taken care of by David who is a witty well contain young chap from the UK. He makes it extra fun by being awesomely British, as well his wife is a part of this as well a very pleasant person to be around.
Yesterday which was the first day of performing at the cafe, I was slightly stressed (with having a chance to entertain some of my literary idols), but today I could really care less as I realized that all I can do is just be myself, and here they expect nothing else.
After a few hours of playing off and on in the sun I get to my modest hotel room in the centre of Fort Galle, take off my sweat drenched clothes and out of curiosity I switch on the TV; not very surprised to see it set to a Russian channel.
The bathroom is extremely tiny, and I couldn’t find the shower until I closed the door which then revealed the shower head facing the toilet. After hearing Tom Stoppard speak about escorting a scorpion out of his bathroom, I went on a short bug search.
so far.
I was hooked on Stoppard after my ballsy alternative school lit teacher introduced the class to ‘Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead.’ He is absolutely my idol and he makes playwriting feel so natural and not forced, but I admit to not being much of a fan of ‘Shakespeare in Love.’
His presentation during the day felt as if he is not to be bothered with ideologies or moral principals, and he just wants art to be seen as art; this notion was underlined as he asked the crowd to why artists have this extra treatment, and that you don’t hear of a pastry chef ever being locked up or banned because of the pastry they make.
I recommend that you check out a local writer name Ashok Ferrey, and as well google Galle, and see how lively this place is.
I thought I would have more time to blog, but unfortunately thats not the case. I will post another blog hopefully by tomorrow morning, and play catch up for the rest of the trip.

Sri Lanka (1st blog entry)

“There is no need to say thank you, by just accepting what you are giving is in itself gratefulness”
Viren Perena (my host)

After approximately a  complete day of traveling plus the time difference of eleven and a half hours I have arrived in Colombo.  The simplicity of the airport felt very familiar, especially after standing in line to acquire an arrival visa alongside bitching and frustrated vacationers from the Russian Federation this was no different from Cuba.  I had to wait another 30 minutes to go through immigration, but after that everything was went smoothly; picked up my luggage, saw my name on a sign, and then I was in a car heading to Colombo.
My driver Mohammad was a catalyst of Sri Lankan driving skills.  He complained on how everyone drives extremely disrespectfully, and that bus drivers here are suicidal drivers.  We might have just stopped only three times to let people pass the street, but otherwise the whole forty minute drive from the airport to Colombo could not be more of a cliche comparison to a roller coaster ride.  Same as in china I saw families of three people on a single motorcycle effortlessly zigzagging in between cars, as girls dressed in their sunday best were attempting to cross the road.

WE HAVE ARRIVED

At the moment I’m staying at a friend’s place who I met in Toronto this past summer at a birthday party.  He is an enchanting fellow who lives with his two wonderful children in an apartment that faces the ocean.  The building where it’s situated is next to the ‘the Galle face hotel’ established in 1864, which makes it the oldest hotels in this part of the world being.
This morning I was told that the building were I’m staying was build on purpose to block the sun light from the hotel till mid day; as a result of one’s man fury at not being allowed into the hotel.
According to Wikipedia Arthur C. Clark wrote the final chapters of 3001 – The Final Odyssey  at the hotel, and from I hear he spent a lot of time in Sri Lanka writing.
Right outside the building there is a busy beach visible through my window. This early morning a group of soldiers were doing sit ups, as another group ran alongside the water.  Last night the beach was bustling with people singing songs, and enjoying a holiday.  There are many religions here and with them comes an abundance of holidays.  I was told that whenever there is a full moon the country takes a day off.  People here love to take time off work, and who wouldn’t with and ocean surrounding them and perfect weather pretty much all year round.

I’m borrowing an amp from my host’s sixteen year old son, and even though it is quite small it sounds great.  It was refreshing to play a bit after the intensity of the past week trying to cram as much as possible into the littlest amount of time.  I brought a new Yamaha violin with me here, and as well my trusted 200 year old violin that sounds great in this apartment of extremely high ceilings and wooden flooring.

I guess it’s the child in me, but I’m excited to venture out of the city soon and go explore the rural areas in search of wildlife, especially the wild monkeys.
Tonight Viren is planning a party at one of his restaurants, and I will perform a few songs.  He said here everything is done last minute, and you can invite people to a party just a night before.  This perfect for someone like me who has the worst time managing ability ever.

I will do the next blog entry this Wednesday, and feel free to ask questions or suggest places to visit or people to meet.

Cheers,

Eugene Draw